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When curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred names. However, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary triumph.